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Eva-Lotta Holm
Flach (E-L): In the 1996 "Bunny Mix" installation at galleri Tre,
you had some cute but rather wimpy bunny suits made up for men.
A video shows the gallery owners and other men acting "normally"
in these suits, making them seem both comical and yet rather pathetic.
In addition to this video, at the vernissage you and some friends
wandered around in the outfits, almost like showgirls. Superficially,
this work doesn´t seem to be particularly difficult to interpret,
but what were your own thoughts?
Charlotte Åbergh
(CÅ): I´ve always been fascinated by clothes and fashion,
and what lies behind the fashion phenomenon. Not least, I´m
particularly interested in the sense of belonging to a group that
fashion creates. This lies at the heart of "Bunny Mix," but of course
there is also the issue of the suit indicating gender affiliation.
Indeed, the bunny is a rather timid character (which for some reason
has been linked to femininity), but at the same time I have also
chosen to develop a model in which the bunny is presented as rather
humorous. I chose to make the suits in denim to accentuate a youth
culture or a prevailing mainstream ideal. In other words, it is
the question of letting different worlds and dimensions break in
simultaneously, which hopefully nourishes an emotion that is absurd
and not so obvious. Naturally, there is also a gender-critical aspect
that is important to bear in mind, but equally so is the issue of
bringing out absurdity.
E-L: Yes, though
the gender-critical dimension is easy to understand, the humorous
side is at least of equal importance. The men´s attitudes
and movements in these suits almost impart a sense of unreality.
The stylistic differences between the genders become so obvious.
But taking the fashion aspect as a starting point, what does fashion
mean to you?
C. : For me,
it´s probably mainly something pleasurable, particularly in
a kind of flipped-out sense. I think about what the eighteenth century
must have been like, with all those extraordinary outfits and extravagances.
But the disco and glitter fashion of the 1970s also holds a strong
fascination for me; it must be rooted in the human need of wanting
something more, of getting completely decked out. In contrast, today´s
"haute couture" does not feel nearly as exciting, and I feel that
trends such as "heroin chic" are purely negative.
E-L: How do
you regard the work of artists like Vanessa Beecroft, who has also
brought up aspects of the fashion industry, even if her focus is
more on the models themselves and their almost unreal physicality?
C. Å:
I can feel a certain kinship, even though I was actually unaware
of her work when I started making my things. In general I probably
work more playfully, and feel a greater kinship with Marie-Louise
Ekman and the manner in which she creates an absurd mood and humor
in her work. I share her interest in eighteenth century theaters,
the décor and the scenographic tableaux.
E-L: As in
"Bunny Mix," in several of your other creations you let people walk
into the work and get personally involved with the aid of your suits.
At Kulturhuset 1997 in "Yes," people got to put on outfits and dance
to disco music.
C. Å: That´s
right, and in the video recording you can see how some people really
get into it. In "The Attack of the Killer Tomatoes," which was shown
as part of Konstbordellen (The Art Brothel) during Cultural Capital
year Œ98, people could come in and pay to dress up in large, cumbersome
tomato costumes. After that they got to look at an awful movie from
the 1970s that gave the title to the work. When you come down to
it, the experience must have been rather uncomfortable for the observer.
The interactive dimension in these contexts has played an important
role, particularly by stimulating interest in people who otherwise
do not react to or have no interest in contemporary art. At the
same time, you can´t deny the fact that this has become a trend
during the 1990s, which I have actually started to tire of myself.
E-L: What is
your relationship to the recent "reality" discussion?
C. Å:
In my case it is probably more a question of depicting different
types of realities, as a vehicle for emphasizing the absurd and
the incomprehensible in life. I might question whether it is truly
possible to depict "reality" in the simple terms in which it is
described in the debate. So far I have never worked like Elin Wickström,
for example, who more tangibly intervenes in true events. This does
not mean that I am against this approach. Indeed, my suits function
as a type of link to what can be referred to as the observer´s
reality, but that isn´t the main point. Recently I´ve
started writing scripts whose meaning I hardly understand myself.
This is somewhat more incomprehensible than my previous work. In
this context, video is the perfect medium, since it allows me to
express the incomprehensibilities of life rather than its intelligibilities.
E-L: In the
video "My Love has got a Gun," which was shown at Bildhuset in 1998,
the impression, as you say, is significantly more abstract and difficult
to understand. It shows a struggle between a woman, a gun, and a
person who is not visible to the observer. The picture is fragmented,
and both the woman and the gun are shiny and gleam like gold. The
light and framing of the camera angle emphasize the abstract structure
of the picture. What is this about?
C.Å:
The intention is to depict a fight between a man and a woman, even
though the man never appears in the picture. He functions as a device,
or a type of façade. The gold serves as a type of mythological
framing, and indicates the superficiality. There is no natural humanity
here. Rather, it is about people extracted from the fashion pages,
who in turn have acquired a sort of life. This life is characterized
by their coolness and isolation, while at the same time, the woman´s
outbreak and struggle indicate a will to break through this perfect
isolation.
E-L: Why do
you believe that this cold, impenetrable surface, which sets the
tone in fashion advertising - and which is criticized for being
just this - lives on?
C. Å: I believe
that it is related to mythology, and our constant desire to defeat
death. The hunt for the young and immortal continues constantly.
But perhaps this is a modern myth; previously, maybe the concept
of age was not so loaded and despised? This is the type of modern
myth and stereotype that I try to work with, as well as the emotion
that appears to be ingrained in us, making us actually want to do
what others do, and be what others are. Even if we criticize it,
I think everyone today tries to look as young and perfect as possible.
E-L: Is this
the theme that is followed up in the video "This time it looks like
love is here to stay" (1999), which is being shown at IASPIS?
C. Å: Here I
would like to emphasize the sense of glamour even more clearly.
The title itself is taken from a Barry White song, which I see as
a symbol for the exclusive disco culture. The entire disco trend
was also very narcissistic. It was a time when everything was wild,
with people embracing luxury, glitter, and superficiality. Sometimes
I can actually feel a certain charm in that decadent world; which
also contained a sense of breaking limits and the unrestrained.
Perhaps there was more room for flipped-out characters. In the video
a woman commits suicide; for me this symbolizes the ability to dare
to go all the way and not stop; to flip out, kill yourself with
drugs, or behave without any inhibitions... I have chosen a dominating
white color in this film, symbolizing not only death, but also innocence
and something equally dangerous. The white color which is at the
same time pure and poisonous.
E-L: In the
first video "Vacuum Clean Love" (1995), where a woman lets herself
be vacuumed in a sort of erotic yet at the same time perfectionistic
ritual, the color pink dominates. Was the intention to find an external
form that would unite the films in a trilogy present from the very
beginning?
C.Å: Not directly,
but one film led to the next. In the latter I was rather tired of
the woman and quite simply wanted to kill her. But now we will see
whether she might just reappear anyway.
E-L: The traditionally
described passive woman is the one who is constantly active in your
creations. Is this a self-portrait?
C.Å: To some
extent all art is a type of self-portrait. But of course, the foundation
is there. It is about me, yet it is not. I have never successfully
fit into the traditional female role, and perhaps in the final analysis
it is this role that women are revolting against.
E-L: Has anyone
ever criticized your work; you know, like saying that it overemphasizes
the superficial and luxury and all that?
C.Å: Very little;
some people have said that I am too aggressive and perhaps too similar
to Cindy Sherman. But people probably don´t say much about what
they don´t like... At the same time, ethical expression is an important
part of the work for me. I want to focus on the ethical dimension,
which in my opinion has become undervalued in the 1990s. This is
not to say that I want to bind myself to this forever, but for now
I am interested in the moment frozen in time, preferably the vague
and abstract what can be experienced as aesthetically appealing.
We will have to wait and see what will happen in the future.
E-L: Are there
any artists that you particularly admire?
C.Å: Apart from
those whom I have already mentioned, I can really appreciate an
artist like Janine Antoni, as well as Stig Sjölund, of course.
E-L: What irritates
you in art?
C.Å:Social art
without content. Just standing there and frying meatballs is not
for me.
Translation
by Susan Larson
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